Fishing and seafood still are the major sources of income on Chiloe.
The unexpected eruption of Vol. Chaiten not too many years ago left the town stranded and volcanic ash and river water swept through the town. That is someones bed "floating"on volcanic ash inside the house.
Fjord like scenery everywhere.
rushing rivers with glacial colored water.
One of the many destroyed houses from the volcanic ash and river water. Note the level of the inundation.
The Menu at "Mi Casita de Te" with full meal selections of homemade soup, roasted lamb, fried Crab, steamed Chicken, or roasted beef.
The gravel roads can be dicey, even for a car with 4 wheels. They past me and then we came upon them. Lost control on the 'marbles'(rocks). No one was hurt.
Mi Casita Tea House. Good food AND WIFI! out in the middle of nowhere!
fishing boats and the Austral Highway 7. It got really narrow at times. This is the only north-south road in these parts.
As I'm looking out of my motorcycle helmet at the pelting rain and gravel road with no one around for miles.
This is what happens when you stop,put the kickstand down and lean over . I waited 1/2 hour for help in getting it lifted. I had to unpack it to reduce the weight.
A nice part of the road. Very wet and beautiful.
unpacking and waiting for help.
Sra. Andrade wanted me to take her picture in front of the motorcycle. In another era she'd have wanted to go traveling also.
Chiloé Island
250 km long and 50 km wide with a population of 116,000
,most of the people live on the sheltered eastern side of the island. The western edge faces the relentless
southerlies which batter the coast from noon onward and drop rain making it the
wetter part of the island. The eastern shore characterized by many small
islands is drier but cloudy and yes, windy. Fishing and forestry remain the
mainstays of the island economy though tourism brings thousands in the summer. It seems like everyone has a
sign out advertising cabañas or camping. We stayed in a small town, mid island
for $5.00 with marginal camping facilities but a killer view.
With stores small and carrying only basics, my diet has
revolved around bread and peanut butter, perhaps a yogurt and pasta for dinner.
Oh yes, don’t forget the instant coffee. I’m currently riding with a buddy who
only camps and seems to forgo most amenities. I, on the other hand, need a
shower now and then…
We’ve spent a good deal of time on dirt and gravel roads
here on Chiloé going to even more isolated beaches and ‘caletas’ or fishing
villages. Now it is time to take the 11pm ferry and cross the Golfo Corcovado
to Chaitén arriving at 7 am. Evening passage is the favored time to limit the
influence of strong winds and
rough seas.
Chaitén is the small town on mainland Chile where we disembark. We then start down the
Carretera Austral or highway 7 that runs a total of 575 kms. The road abruptly
halts at a small settlement and beyond that are the Glaciers and Fjords that
prohibit further road travel. Boat travel remains the primary means of access
into many remote areas.This rough area has only recently been open enough to
make the trip and it still remains one of the remotest areas in Chile as well
as the rest of South America . Rain is fairly constant and an average of 2000mm
a year fall in this area. Needless to say, it is green and windy.
If you
look at a map, you’ll find Lago General Carrera and at that point we cross the
lake and cross into Argentina at the lonely outpost of Chile Chico. Much dirt
and gravel roads await this next leg of the trip. Exciting, daunting and
challenging I’m anxious and wanting to face the challenge. I’ve never been in a
more remote area and the daily things I take for granted, (like medical
help)just aren’t around. So here we go!
After an all night boat trip (think sleeping on the
ferryboat!) we unloaded at 7 am and headed down south on smooth,paved roads
with looming mountains jutting up all around us. The it happened…dirt and gravel
and DUST. After 125 km of riding in dust with mixed road conditions I ducked
into “Mi Casita de Te” (my tea house) in a small junction outpost. Thinking tea
I was surprised to be offered roasted lamb and fresh potatoes for lunch
followed by a rhubarb compote. Since I’ve been existing on bread and peanut
butter, yogurt and whatever else I can grab, this was special.
After a night of camping by an unknown lake I discover that
my front forks( front shocks) were leaking oil…not a good sign, especially when
I’m a long way away from any service that could address this issue. Carry on.
In the morning I set out ahead of my riding buddy in an
attempt to make a 5 hour dirt road trip shorter. It wasn’t to happen. The mist
came, then the rain and soon the dusty roads of yesterday became the new mud
roads of today. Slow going but not slow enough…(see photo)
Arriving at a town with the name of a
mechanic I was hopeful that someone could consult with me about what to do. The
end result is that Monday early I will call Santiago, Chile and hopefully get the parts flown down so I can be back on the road in a week.
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